Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Saturday, January 5, 2008- Citadel, Palace of San Souci

Today was a great day. We had plans to go see the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’, The Citadel, which was built by King Henry Christophe. He was the first ruler of Haiti after the war for independence from France was won. His intention was to build a fort that would rival the magnificent forts of Europe and also to protect the island from re-enslavement. Ironically he already completed that task of forced servitude by forcing Haitians to endure back breaking labor to build this fortress. Undoubtedly, I believe the Citadel in its former grandeur to have compared with the European forts.

The weather was not kind to us today. It was very rainy since the beginning of the day, which is not a great day for site seeing. It was unbelievably foggy at the top of the mountain as well. So we initially had the goal of just going to see the Palace of San Souci, and then if the weather was fair to go on ahead and climb the 7 kilometer mountain to the top. To get to the mountain, we had to drive through the town of Milot. That was super fun. I love people watching, and I am sure they were people watching us, although it would have been so much more enjoyable if it was not sprinkling so much. It really puts a damper on the mood of everything.

Once we arrived at the Palace of San Souci and I got to see the statue of King Henry Christophe I thought about a book I read called Silencing the Past which is like a philosophy book about how history is something created and often written by the “victors” of historical events. Most people hear the name ‘San Souci’ and think of the Palace. However, there are records and archives that talk about an African born slave, a Bossales, that was at odds with the Haitian revolutionary leaders- Toussaint, Dessalines, Christophe, and Petion, especially Christophe who supposedly murdered San Souci at the location that the Palace is built. His contribution to the revolution with his excellence in guerilla war tactics is crucial to the history of the revolution and I think that this history suffers from this silencing. His story as a revolutionary leader has been lost, purposely, with the betrayal of Christophe who has replaced his memory with a palace. I would question why was this man so important that Christophe would go to such measures to erase him from history and the narratives known as the past. That is a sad thought but a very real reality where power and how what we accept as the past is all a carefully strung together tale.

It was kind of amusing to see all of the impromptu tour guides willing to take us up the mountain. There were many merchants attempting to sell us their handy crafts and artwork. All of us decided to hike up the mountain as apposed to taking a small horse. Each person in charge of the horses followed us up the mountain any how believing we would tire along the way. Rightfully so, because half way I was definitely wheezing. It’s amazing how the horse owners run along side the horse all the way up the mountain along steep hills the entire way. They’re in good shape. Two other interns and I, who took a horse, made it first to the Citadel while the others continued hiking. Away from the others in the fog and the cold, it was very eerie, as if one could feel the souls of the estimated 20,000 Haitians who died making this wonder. The fog was a good effect, but it did take away from the grandeur of the Citadel. Citadel was great.

We ended the day right with a party. Last night they killed a goat for us, so we had fresh meat! I love goat. The party goers were many of the young folks from the community of Shada. It let me see how essential it is to build community trust and friendship when conducting developmental projects. Friendship is very sustainable. Our Haitian Idol performed: Rosemand Jolissant and our little Lucky Dubby- Benik. All in all the night was awesome, good food, good music, and good company. I was tired from the hike, and this night was the best night’s sleep that I have had yet on this trip.

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